The Temples of Karnak

Karnak is an amazing and spectacular complex that reflects the glory of Egypt's Golden Age. The network of sanctuaries, pylons, kiosks and obelisks is dedicated to the Theban gods and the greater glory of Egypt's pharaohs; and covers around 1.2 sq km. The complex was built, added to, dismantled, restored, enlarged and decorated over nearly 1500 years. Most of the work is from the New Kingdom period, which means that is only 3000 or so years old!

As I wandered along the path lined by ram-headed sphinxes and gazed in awe at the massive first pylon, I allowed my mind to drift through the millenia and imagine what this place would have been like when ruled by the boy king Tutankhamun, the legendary Ramses I, the warrior king Tuthmosis III (who apparently never lost a battle), or my favourite - the heretic Pharaoh Akenhaten. There can be no doubt that I romanticise what it would have been like, but you'll just have to forgive me my foibles; besides it is far more fun to imagine the hoardes as people from the Golden Age, when Egypt was the most powerful nation on Earth, than the tour groups from every corner of the earth that they actually are.

I wandered, rested and just sat in the Great Hypostyle Hall for what seemed like an eternity. It is 6000 sq metres of sheer unforgettable majesty. The innumerable columns and decorative carvings were built by Amenhotep III, Seti I and Ramses II.

Feeling decidely sated, although somewhat parched by the baking heat, I mosied along to the Luxor Museum and sought sanctuary in its air conditioned comfort. Although smallish, it is quite possibly the most impressive museum I have visited on this trip. An excellent video (in English) gave a great overview of the collection, which has been impressively conserved and displayed. The relics from Theban temples and necropolises include pottery, jewellery, furniture, statues and stelae. The highlights wre an exquisitely carved statue of Tuthmosis III, the gorgeous gilded head of the goddess Hathor and a light weight chariot from the tomb of Tutankhamun.

Tomorrow I will venture across the river to explore the Valley of the Kings and the Funery Temple of Hatsheput.