Out of Africa

When the time came to leave Luxor I decided to catch the day train and see some of the countryside along the way (and save some money while I'm at it). Interesting choice!!! I should have had some clue when the guy at the ticket counter in Luxor said the train is full, you'll have to buy your ticket on the train! Slightly bewildered, I decided to go with it. When the train arrived it was about a third full. I duly found a seat, paid for my ticket (less than a sixth the cost of the sleeper train) and settled in. Four hours and six stops later, I had been moved twice and the train was at about 110% capacity. Unfortunately this meant I spent the next six and a half hours standing in the aisle or nursing a tea while sitting on a bar stool in the dining care (I'm being kind here). While on the train I also made a discovery that took some of the lustre off my time in Luxor - somebody had taken some cash (70 euros) out of my money belt when it was buried at the bottom of my pack inside my locked hotel room!

Despite my earlier feelings toward Cairo, I had decided to head back a little arly and spend two more days there. I spent my time wandering along the Nile, finding cafes and places to relax and read my book. I had returned to the Meramees Hotel, where I stayed on my first visit to Cairo, and was instantly glad that I had. In such a crazy city, the place has such a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, with a great lounge to share stories with fellow travellers.

One such traveller was Rika, a German woman who has been studying in Cairo for about a month and was just about to commence an internship at a Womens Centre (looking at various gender related political and legal issues). I couldn't help but feel, as an Australian, quite insular, as in the space of 15 minutes, Rika effortlessly swapped between conversations in German, English, Arabic and French. She also made reference to the year she spent in Guatemala (so she is also fluent in Spanish). It has left me inspired to plan my next overseas adventure a little further in advance and give myself sufficient time to take a year or so of language classes. It would, quite simply, change the whole experience.

Also back at Meramees was Richard, an English guy who I had met on my first visit to Cairo. He had headed north to Alexandria and the Mediterranean coast shortly after I caught the train south to Aswan. He arrived shortly before the kick off of the Euro 2008 final. I spent my last night in Egypt with Richard, as the only two non-Egyptians in a crowded bar off a side street in the centre of Cairo. I have no idea why, but the majority of the patrons were clearly barracking for Spain over Germany. The whole place erupted in the thirty-third minute when Spain went ahead, and again at the final whistle as the underdogs had held onto their one goal lead.

It seems that the centre of Cairo is more alive as the hour approaches midnight, than at any other time of the day (certainly don't expect to be able to buy anything before about 11 am). It was a great way to finish my time in Egypt and fitted in nicely, as shortly after our return to the hotel I jumped in a taxi and headed to the airport for my 3:30am flight to Istanbul.

And so I have returned to where this adventure started, nearly 2 months ago. Even though I had only spent two days here, walking into old Istanbul felt reminiscent of a homecoming. There's a certain comfort that familiarity brings. Although more than 3 times the size of Cairo, Istanbul has a different pace and feel to it and, I think as a result, more majesty than Cairo could ever hope to attain.

An Egyptian Riddle

In this case I am not considering the origin of the sphinx, how the pyramids were built, nor even the propensity for Egyptians to say "Welcome to Alaska" when it is 43 degrees outside. Rather, I have noticed that the heads of many statues have been removed and the faces of images adorning temple walls have been chiseled away. In some temples, this has been done to over 90% of the images.

The stories you get as to the reasoning behind this will vary dramatically depending on who you ask or listen to. I have heard Egyptian guides tell tour groups one of two stories. In some cases the temples were buried under sands for long periods of time, leaving only the heads of the statues exposed. This version portrays the damage as being the natural result of prolonged exposure to the elements.

The second version involves revenge by the early Egyptian Christians for their treatment at the hands of Muslims and foreign invaders.

(For no particular reason) the story that I place most credence in relates to the Muslim art world. For many years (and it is still the case under strict or conservative interpretations) faces did not appear in Muslim art. I don't have a good handle on the rationale, but this version of the story involves the systematic desecration of ancient Egyptian temples by Muslims, in keeping with their artistic beliefs.

This may be something to look into a little further.

The Luxor Temple

Right in the heart of modern day Luxor and close to the Nile, the Luxor Temple is a striking symbol of the changing face of Egypt. It was largely built by the New Kingdom pharaoh Amenhotep III on the site of an older sanctuary dedicated to the Theban triad. It was added to over the centuries by Tutankhamun, Ramses II, Alexander the Great and various occupying Romans. In the 13th century, an arab mosque was built in one of the interior courts.

In a similar style to that found at Karnak, the path to the pylon is lined with sphinxes. Inside is the mosque and a colonnaded hall that leads to the main court. It is so easy to lose yourself amongst the history and majesty of such a place, despite the periodic intrusion of the modern bustling city on its doorstep.

In the afternoon I stopped by the Mummification Museum to learn everything you could ever want to know about mummies, mummification and the journey into the afterlife. The displays provide a fascinating pictorial insight into the whole process and journey, as well as displaying the materials and tools that were used by the ancient Egyptians.

The West Bank

No, I didn't decide to visit the occupied Palestinian Territories, rather I ventured across the Nile to visit the ancient wonders of the Valley of the Kings, Deir al-Bahri (Funery Temple of Hatsheput) and the Valley of the Queens. During my wanderings around Luxor the previous night I met and had tea with Mohammed, a local taxi driver. Given the distances involved and the heat of the day, I negotiated with him a tour of the West Bank sights.

The West Bank of Luxor was the necropolis of ancient Thebes, a vast city of the dead where magnificent temples were raised to honour pharaohs entombed in the nearby hills, and where Egyptians of all standings had tombs built ranging from the spectacular to the ordinary in terms of design and decor.

The Valley of the Kings, once known as the Place of Truth, is undoubtedly the most famous royal necropolis. The Valley is dominated by barren mountains and the tombs are apparently designed to resemble the underworld. a corridor carved from the rock descends either into an antechamber or a series of halls, and ends in a burial chamber. The entry ticket grants you entry into your choice of three tombs. I chose Seti II, Tuthmosis III and Ramses III. The tomb of Tutankhamun requires an additional ticket and I guess I am typical of most tourists; having come this far and having gazed upon its treasures at the museum in Cairo, I happily handed over the additional money. While interesting to see, this tomb proved to be far from the most interesting.

For a couple of reasons, the most memorable tomb was undoubtedly that built for Seti II. The tomb is located at the far end of the valley from the ticket office, and in an effort to find some time away from the crowds I headed their first. It worked, as I found myself exploring the tomb all alone. I had been marvelling at the decoration and the detail of the stories etched on the walls when a power blackout plunged the tomb into almost complete darkness. It was quite an odd feeling but as my eyes adjusted, the narrow shaft of light coming from the entrance allowed me to find the steps out. I was soon joined by the tombs attendant, who appeared relieved by the fact that I was smiling rather than becoming anxious.

The artistry, detail and preservation of the tombs is truly remarkable. The amount of time I spent inside each tomb however, depended more on the airflow. The tombs can be either a refreshingly cool change from the heat of the day, or a sauna where emerging from a 10 minute visit, you find your shirt soaked through. While photos inside the tombs is (apparently) strictly forbidden, there is the ever present reminder that, in Egypt, everything is for sale. If you are so inclined, a few ponds in the right hand, when there is nobody else around will allow you to take a photo of almost anything.

One of the places I had been most keen to visit was the Funery Temple of Hatsheput. One of the more photographed images of Egypt, it rises out of the desert plain in a series of terraces and merges with sheer limestone cliffs on the eastern face of the Theban mountain. The hike from the Valley of the Kings to Hatsheput is apparently steep and spectacular. If I am ever back this way at a time of year when it is less than 40 degrees, I will have to try it! Although the temple was desecrated and vandalised by Tuthmosis III (Hatsheput's successor), it has lost little of it's magnificence and splendor.

In what seems to be common to most countries I have visited, once you move away from the icon sites, the crowds drop away significantly. I was more than a little surprised to find this at the Valley of the Queens. Although the tomb of Nefertari has remained closed to the public (for quite some time now), the three tombs I visited - Amunherkhepshuf, Titi and Khaemwaset - were spectacularly decorated and the relative solitude allowed me to explore them at a far more relaxed and leisurely pace.

After nearly six hours with my driver (who had waited patiently in the car and allowed me to explore at my own pace) for the equivalent of about $30, I returned across the Nile to a traditional Nubian style lunch and an afternoon of relaxing by the rooftop pool. I have become partial to Tagens, which are a Nubian style individual casserole which can be filled with whatever your heart (or stomach) desires. For about $4, the fish and kofta (meatballs) are favourites.

The Temples of Karnak

Karnak is an amazing and spectacular complex that reflects the glory of Egypt's Golden Age. The network of sanctuaries, pylons, kiosks and obelisks is dedicated to the Theban gods and the greater glory of Egypt's pharaohs; and covers around 1.2 sq km. The complex was built, added to, dismantled, restored, enlarged and decorated over nearly 1500 years. Most of the work is from the New Kingdom period, which means that is only 3000 or so years old!

As I wandered along the path lined by ram-headed sphinxes and gazed in awe at the massive first pylon, I allowed my mind to drift through the millenia and imagine what this place would have been like when ruled by the boy king Tutankhamun, the legendary Ramses I, the warrior king Tuthmosis III (who apparently never lost a battle), or my favourite - the heretic Pharaoh Akenhaten. There can be no doubt that I romanticise what it would have been like, but you'll just have to forgive me my foibles; besides it is far more fun to imagine the hoardes as people from the Golden Age, when Egypt was the most powerful nation on Earth, than the tour groups from every corner of the earth that they actually are.

I wandered, rested and just sat in the Great Hypostyle Hall for what seemed like an eternity. It is 6000 sq metres of sheer unforgettable majesty. The innumerable columns and decorative carvings were built by Amenhotep III, Seti I and Ramses II.

Feeling decidely sated, although somewhat parched by the baking heat, I mosied along to the Luxor Museum and sought sanctuary in its air conditioned comfort. Although smallish, it is quite possibly the most impressive museum I have visited on this trip. An excellent video (in English) gave a great overview of the collection, which has been impressively conserved and displayed. The relics from Theban temples and necropolises include pottery, jewellery, furniture, statues and stelae. The highlights wre an exquisitely carved statue of Tuthmosis III, the gorgeous gilded head of the goddess Hathor and a light weight chariot from the tomb of Tutankhamun.

Tomorrow I will venture across the river to explore the Valley of the Kings and the Funery Temple of Hatsheput.

The Nile by Felucca

The two days aboard the felucca continued my trend of relaxing into Egypt. As it turned out, we had 9 on board for the first night and 7 for the second. They were such an easy going group (2 Aussies, 4 Americans, 1 Brit, 1 South African and an Argentinian) that the 2 days of relaxation and fun will undoubtedly be one of my highlights from Egypt.

A felucca is pretty basic boat. About 30 feet long, it has no engines, no running water and no toilets. Everybody sleeps on mattresses on the deck, which also doubles as afternoon lounging area and dinner table. The cooking is done on a small gas burner stove and the crew did amazingly well at turning out delicious meals.

We spent two glorious days sailing and drifting down the Nile; punctuated only by stops at the occasional beach for the obligatory swim or wander around one of the many villages that dot the banks. It was great to spend some more time just chatting, playing cards or reading my book (during the trip I finished the novel I was reading and traded with Joe, the English guy for the book he had just finished). I am beginning to think that, as a traveller, different people drop in to share your adventure for a reason, whether it be for meal, for a couple of days or for a couple of weeks, they provide an infinite number of perspectives from an infinite number of backgrounds. Some engender respect and admiration, and leave me wanting to know more; while others provide some entertainment and you are happy to wish them well when you part company. There were both on this trip (as there often is).

And so I have come to Luxor. The bus stopped off for visits to Kom Ombo and the magificently preserved Temple of Edfu on the way here. It's just fascinating to wander and gaze at the detail of the hierogliphs.

I have spent the afternoon finding my bearings around the town and it's likely that I will spend the next 5 nights here so I can relax and fully explore all this place has to offer (Karnak, Valley of the Kings, Hatcheput and Thebes, just to name a few). Right now however, I am off to relax by the rooftop pool at my hotel and watch the sun as it sets over the Nile and the Luxor Temple.

In case you were wondering, yes there are one or two tales to tell from the felucca trip. They are however, destined to enter travelling folklore through an oral history and not written account!

Getting Used to Life in Egypt

There is little doubt that now I have relaxed into the way things are done in Egypt I have become much happier. It is still occasionally hard work and frustrating, but it has become so much more rewarding. it seems, to a certain extent at least, that you get back what you put out. It has reinforced that, as a traveller at least, my favourite places will tend to be away from the big cities.

I rose early yesterday, keen to get some sightseeing done before the heat of the day became unbearable (it has been in the low 40s every day). I caught the ferry across to the west bank of Aswan and wandered some of the tombs of local dignitaries from the Old and Middle Kingdoms. They provide a magnificant view of the sprawling city of Aswan and of the islands that grace the Nile River.

Despite being thought crazy by the local camel drivers, I elected to walk the couple of kilometres to the Monastery of St Simeon. Older, but not as grand as its namesake in northern Syria, it is a very well preserved 6th century mud brick Coptic Christian monastery that affords unsurpassed views across the Mausoleum of the Aga Khan and the desert that borders the Nile.

After a slight hiccup with organising a ride back across the Nile, and some animated discussion, I was rowed back across the occasionally swirling waters in a boat so old and tiny that it would barely have been at home on the placid waters of a farm dam!

Later in the afternoon I elected to save my legs and take a horse drawn carriage up to the museum. Right from the very first morning I had landed in Istanbul, part of me had expected to be in an accident any time I was within shouting distance of a road. And so it came to pass yesterday afternoon, when a taxi, not concentrating on the road infront of him, struck the carriage in which I was riding. I am absolutely fine (although now I can cross off carriages and camels as forms of transport I will use in the future!) and have come out of it with nothing more than a small bruise on my right shoulder.

My driver, Mustafa, appeared so genuinely concerned with my welfare that he insisted on taking me to his house and plying me with tea until was able to convince hime that I was OK. I missed the museum, but I saw a side of Aswan seen by few tourists and I met and spent some time with a real Egyptian family. Of the 9 children that he and his wife have had, Mustafa was unashamedly proudest of the most recent addition to the family, their first son. Mustafa however, seemingly like all Egyptian men, is at heart a businessman. What followed was quite a barrage of offering to source me nearly any product my heart desired, from t shirts or papyrus to sheesa pipes and hash. Despite my protestations and continual declining of his offers, he agreed to drop me at the Nubian House Restaurant where I relaxed over tea and pastries, and savoured every last second of a memorable and spectacular sunset.

Today I am tackling a new form of transport for me, a felucca. I have negotiated with a captain who will take me and four others down the Nile to Kom Ombo, Edfu and Esna, before being picked up and ferried by bus to Luxor. It will be 2 nights aboard what can at best be described as a primitive sail boat, so Im sure there will be some tales to tell when I get to the other end.

Abu Simbel, Philae and the Aswan High Dam

You could debate the merits or otherwise, of the decsion in the 1960s to build the Aswan High Dam until the cows come home (which around here could be quite some time!), but yesterday I got to explore what the Egyptians were willing to move so that they would not be drowned by the rising waters.

Abu Simbel is about 280km south of Aswan and can only be reached as part of a convoy that leaves town each morning at 4 oclock! I absolutely love watching as the first light of dawn spreads across the desert, I just wish they didnt occur so bloody early!

My first sight of The Great Temple of Abu Simbel cleared my bleary eyes and had me entranced for what felt like hours. The temple was dedicated by Ramses II, at least in part, to the deified pharaoh himself. Guarding the entrance were four (3 now remain) colossal statues of Ramses II, each more than 20m tall. These are interspersed with smaller statues of his mother (Queen Tuya), wife (Nefertari) and some of their children. The cavernous inside is decorated in some of the most amazing hierogliphics, depicting scenes of great battles, feasts and offerings to the Gods, that you could ever dream of laying your eyes on. Only 100m away, the Temple of Hathor has also been relocated to the same complex and is adorned by six 10m high statues, four of Ramses and two of Nefertari.

On our way back to Aswan we visited the haunting Temple of Philae, now located on Aglikia Island. At least with 9 of us we were able to negotiate our way around the cartel of boat captains that has formed to ferry tourists to the island. The temple was dedicated to Isis, who found the heart of her slain brother Osiris (who had the head of a falcon and whose image is so prevalent in Egypt) on Philae Island. Once there, we had the place almost to ourselves and it was great to get such an up close perspective (and take some photos) of the carvings and hierogliphics.

We also stopped at the dam wall, the source of (at least for me) so much controversy. As a structure, it is impressive to think that it 17 times the volume og the Great Pyramid at Giza. Part of me will always consider it a shame and a travesty that we are moved to build structures that so radically change the flow of nature and require such magnificant monuments from the past to be relocated.

The Tarnished Pyramids of Giza

As my taxi sped through the streets of Giza, my anticiapation rose and I forced myself to keep my eyes open (most taxi rides in Cairo pass far more smoothly if you have your eyes closed!). Without warning, we rounded a corner and the Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops) seemed to materialise before my eyes. It stands nearly 150m high and has been around for about 4600 years. As the sole survivor of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the pyramids stand tall and proud and unquestionably live up to, if not surpass, all of the inevitable hype.

Unfortunately, I made a couple of rookie traveller mistakes that have tarnished my time at the pyramids. With a day to digest the events, and several hundred kilometres now separating me from Cairo, I feel I was seduced by the Syrians. Like the Syrians, the Egyptians are friendly and keen to engage in conversation. The Syrians however, never wanted anything from me and this could not be further from the psyche of most Egyptians. There are exceptions of course, but they feel like exactly that, exceptions.

In the shadow of the Great Pyramid, and for the first time on this trip, I completely lost my cool. I should have known better and, with the benfit of hindsight, I was probably more pissed off at me for allowing myself to be suckered by people whose intentions are crystal clear. In the grand scheme of things it was a relatively cheap lesson, well learned. What it amounts to is that for about $60, I have some tourist tat I didnt need and dont want and some expensive photos of me aboard a camel. It has however, left me more cycnical than I like to be and the continuing constant barrage is proving more erosive (?) than I care to admit.

I spent some time trying to calm down by gazing at the face of the sphinx (known in Arabic as Abu al Hol or the Father of Terror) and I pity the next couple of touts who asked if I wanted a camel ride! When I had relaxed a little, I negotiated a fair price for a camel ride out to a place where the panoramic view of all 9 pyramids (3 kings and 9 queens) is simply stunning. It allowed me to enjoy the time I had left at Giza, including a more than slightly eerie experience of climbing through the pyramid of Khafre (Chepren).

As for Cairo, I feel that one day I will return to the pyramids at Giza. It was fascinating to experience such ancient structures on the doorstep of sprawling Cairo and I long to be able to write about them in the glowing and awe inspiring superlatives that they so richly deserve. Maybe by the time I return thay will have lost their tarnish and regained their lustre.

Cacophonous Cairo

Im not quite sure where to begin, Cairo is crazy, mad and completely out of control. It is not unlike some sort of twisted temptress, you know its bad for you but you cant help but get sucked in, even if its just a little. In just two days, I felt such a range of emotions that I just had to get away. Cairo is loud, obnoxious but undeniably charasmatic. The roads are nothing short of mayhem and the shops and buildings a curious and occasionally confusing blend modern and traditional, with ancient structures overlooked by golden arches.

The training I received on the streets of Hanoi, in the art of being a pedestrian, has served me well. Without it I fear that I may have been confined to one square block, not game to cross the street. Road rules are a concept so foreign to drivers in Cairo that they are not even joked about. I suspect that if I were to ask somebody about them, I would get a blank stare, totally bereft of even the slightest comprehension.

The Nile however, is utterly hypnotic. Were it not for the pollution and the overbearing heat, you spend endless days watching the procession of boats, interspersed with the occasional sojourn into downtown to wander the streets or brave an evening visit to the great bazaar, Khan al Khalili.

I must pass through Cairo again, as my flight back to Istanbul departs from there. I think however, that I may leave further exploration for another trip, when I am not quite so travel weary and have the energy and motivation to do her justice.

The Boy King and the Heretic Pharaoh

For just the third time, I have spent nearly the entire day exploring and being entirely engrossed by a single museum. Interestingly enough (or not, as your preference may be), prior to the Egyptiam Museum the others were the Boston Museum of Science (1991) and the Louvre (2002).

I must admit to having a soft spot for Akhenaten. I'm not quite sure whether it was his establishment of a monotheistic faith (ancient Egypt's first and last by the way) and apparent willingness to rock the boat, or whether it is a touch of envy given that he was married to the stunning Nefertiti. Either way, their statues and images make for a fascinating contrast with typical style of Pharaonic sculpture.

Tutankhamun is unquestionably the most well known Pharaoh ever to grace ancient Egypt. The son of Akhenaten and with a reign that lasted only 9 years, his importance is, infact, relatively minor. The intactness of his tomb, and the fanfare that accompanied its discovery, has assurred his place in the modern consciousness of the world. I was so mesmerised by the beauty of his death mask that I returned to visit three times during the course of the day (of course this may also have had something to do with the fact that it was in one of a handfull of rooms that was airconditioned, making it a very welcome respite).

The other highlights were the Royal Tombs of Tanis, containing a glittering collection of amulets, funery masks, daggers, bracelets and collars; and the Royal Mummy Room, housing the magnificently preserved bodies of pharaohs and queens (including Ramses II) up to 3500 years old.

Unfortunately, as cameras are not even allowed within shouting distince of the museum entry, you will have to rely solely on my words. Either that, or come and be dazzled for yourself.

Mt Sinai & St Katherine's

I had the most deeply moving and spiritual morning and I can't really describe why. In a change for me I didn't rue the crowds. The chance to share the majestic sunrise with nearly 500 of my closest friends merely added to the atmosphere. As did the Brazilian christian group, whose music and songs were a fitting compliment to the breathtaking scenery and whole experience.

In the end there were only two of us in the mini bus that left Dahab around midnight. My fellow climber was Samuel, a slightly crazy Polish guy who (for a while) seemed more intent on sharing his whiskey and scoring some hash from every camel driver and kiosk operator we passed. He was fun though.

After a 2 hour drive in which my passport was checked three times and a distinct lack of clarity as to whether a guide had been arranged for us, we set off up the trail by ourselves. The three-quarter moon cast a pale glow over the near landscape and allowed for the towering peaks to be dramatically silhouetted aginst the clear starry sky. We followed the almost ghoastly line of flashlights that snaked its way up the mountain, and managed to pick our way from tour group to tour group. Two and half hours later, my legs burning and my shirt saturated, we secured are positions atop the 2285m peak and awaited the coming dawn. Whether you choose to believe in the biblical significance of Mt Sinai, or not, it is truly an experience that everybody should have.

We chose to descend via the 3750 Steps of Repentance, which were laid by a monk as a form of penance. Just walking down them was penance enough for me. It occurred to me on the way down that I hope Moses had a good donkey, because stuffed if I know how an octagenarian would be able to carry two stone tablets down off that mountain!

The steps afford some spectacular views of St Katherin's Monastery, where we arrived just in time for its opening at 9. I could not escape the feeling that we were imposing on this community of monks, as every morning hoards of visitors shatter their otherwise peaceful existence. It was indeed a privelage to wandering through the ornately decorated chapel, pass by the burning bush and marvel at the collection thousand year old manuscripts and a cross dating from the 6th century.

For those Cooinda-ites reading this; I think, had Wowassa lived in the digital age, when he returned from the mountain he would have been clasping the memory card from his camera! Try as they might, the photos will never do it justice; it is a place and a moment that must be experienced.

You never write your postcards on those bad days

For various reasons lines from particular songs have struck a struck a chord (sorry) at various times during my travels. I will be suitably impressed if anyone was able to identify the title of this post as a line from the Weddings, Parties, Anything sone 'The Year She Spent in England.' Anyway, now that the moment has past, I thought I would reflect on it for posterity (this is my diary after all).

I'm not sure whether, in my exhaustion when I arrived in Dahab, that I got careless or just unlucky. Either way, I ended up with a case of the (apparently) dreaded 'Dahab Shits.' I'm pretty confident it wasn't the seafood platter I enjoyed on my first night here (it would have to have set a record) but I did wash my teeth in the tap water and the salds and some of the glasses (washed in that tap water) do have some questions over them in this part of the world.

A visit to the pharmacy (you don't need a prescription for anything over here) and the suggested local remedy of Anise tea, had me back on my feet after about a day and a half in bed and not being game to venture too far from the sanctity of my bathroom!

This made me realise that, despite all the great people I have met along the way, travelling by yourself can have its pitfalls. It's most of the reason for a line from the the Waifs song London Still to come floating into my conciousness - 'Today I dream of home and not of London anymore.'

As I said when I started, that moment has passed. Catching up on sleep and a night out with Carol (who I'd met in Syria) has got me back to dreaming of Mt Sinai, Cairo, Abu Simbel, Thebes and Karnak (as it should be).

Images of Jordan

OK, so I'm getting worse at deciding!