You could debate the merits or otherwise, of the decsion in the 1960s to build the Aswan High Dam until the cows come home (which around here could be quite some time!), but yesterday I got to explore what the Egyptians were willing to move so that they would not be drowned by the rising waters. Abu Simbel is about 280km south of Aswan and can only be reached as part of a convoy that leaves town each morning at 4 oclock! I absolutely love watching as the first light of dawn spreads across the desert, I just wish they didnt occur so bloody early!
My first sight of The Great Temple of Abu Simbel cleared my bleary eyes and had me entranced for what felt like hours. The temple was dedicated by Ramses II, at least in part, to the deified pharaoh himself. Guarding the entrance were four (3 now remain) colossal statues of Ramses II, each more than 20m tall. These are interspersed with smaller statues of his mother (Queen Tuya), wife (Nefertari) and some of their children. The cavernous inside is decorated in some of the most amazing hierogliphics, depicting scenes of great battles, feasts and offerings to the Gods, that you could ever dream of laying your eyes on. Only 100m away, the Temple of Hathor has also been relocated to the same complex and is adorned by six 10m high statues, four of Ramses and two of Nefertari.
On our w
ay back to Aswan we visited the haunting Temple of Philae, now located on Aglikia Island. At least with 9 of us we were able to negotiate our way around the cartel of boat captains that has formed to ferry tourists to the island. The temple was dedicated to Isis, who found the heart of her slain brother Osiris (who had the head of a falcon and whose image is so prevalent in Egypt) on Philae Island. Once there, we had the place almost to ourselves and it was great to get such an up close perspective (and take some photos) of the carvings and hierogliphics.
ay back to Aswan we visited the haunting Temple of Philae, now located on Aglikia Island. At least with 9 of us we were able to negotiate our way around the cartel of boat captains that has formed to ferry tourists to the island. The temple was dedicated to Isis, who found the heart of her slain brother Osiris (who had the head of a falcon and whose image is so prevalent in Egypt) on Philae Island. Once there, we had the place almost to ourselves and it was great to get such an up close perspective (and take some photos) of the carvings and hierogliphics.
We also stopped at the dam wall, the source of (at least for me) so much controversy. As a structure, it is impressive to think that it 17 times the volume og the Great Pyramid at Giza. Part of me will always consider it a shame and a travesty that we are moved to build structures that so radically change the flow of nature and require such magnificant monuments from the past to be relocated.
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