I hadn't intended to post another message today but I feel as though I need to share my last hour. I set out to wander the souqs (markets) in Hama and see if there were any bargains to be had. After trying a couple of things on but decideing that my wallet was going to remain closed, I returned to my happy wanderings. I was approached by a young guy who was obviously keen to practice his english and wander as we did. What followed was a candid conversation, the likes of which was so removed from my expectations so as to be quite confronting had my experiences with the Syrian people not been so friendly and helpful.
Abdul quizzed me on my attitudes toward muslim people, the Islamic faith and my experiences in Syria. I, in turn, was fascinated by his experiences with other tourists, interpretations of religion, Syria's place in the world and the status of women.
It seems that europeans are seen as being a little stand-offish, not wanting to become involved in such conversations. Abdul thanked me for my friendly and open nature. He was keen to get honest opinions from me and was surprised that our attitudes toward religion and faith were remarkably similar. We both believe that there are (small) factions of all religions (not confined to Islam), where strict interpretations of faith and the scriptures aspouse radical ideas that result in many people of that faith, or indeed whole countries or regions being painted with a tainted brush. More than anything else, this will be my major memory from Syria. More than any other country on my travel itinery, people expressed surprise about my desire to visit Syria. I have felt safer here and more welcome than anywhere else I have been.
Abdul provided an interesting insight into this. He said that, in his religion, it is forbidden to bring harm to tourists. We have entered their country and cannot be harmed on their land. I remembered the closing line from an article in The Age all those months ago. On the ride to the airport on his way out of Syria, the journalist asked the driver about terrorism in Syria. The response was monsieur (the French influence still lingers in Syria) "we have no terrorism in Syria, we export terrorism." I have a different appreciation of that comment now, but it encapsulates what I have felt during my time here (the first part) and the challenges that Syria will face in its continuing development (the second part).
I was riveted by Abdul's description about the clothing that women where and the rationale for it. For a lot of women, the degree to which they are covered is now a matter of choice. They must reveal their beauty only to their husbands and it remains the woman's responsibility to dress in such a way as not to be coveted by many men. Though I chose not to challenge Abdul on this point, he clearly sensed that I did not agree. This was also the case when he stated that muslim men are allowed to take up to four wives.
Diversity of cultures add to the rich tapestry of people from across the world. Yes, there are many differences; but there are also many similarities. If not willing to embrace all the differences, I now feel as though I have a greater understanding of some of them.
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Crac Des Chavaliers & the Castles of Syria
Today was 
to be the day that I would finally see the castle described by Paul Theroux as the epitome of the dream castle of childhood fantasies. TE Lawrence simply called it 'the finest castle in the world.' All I can say is that it lives up to this hype. If you are inclined to visit just one castle in this world, make it Crac Des Chavaliers.
In order to make the most of the day however, Crac would be the third place visited that day,as my driver took me to the Citadel at Misyaf and Qala'at Marqab. With the modern city of Misyaf (I use modern here meaning current rather than commenting on its state of development) growing around the citadel, it is easy to see how such places were so vital to the properity (and security) of the people who inhabited the surrounding countryside. The elevated positions of the citadels invariably result in amazing views; from within the town toward the citadel and from the citadel, of the town and surrounding country. I have also found citadels to be a useful navigation tool in large cities such as Aleppo. There are very few parts of the city from which the citadel cannot be seen and, as such, it is hard to be completely and hopelessly lost.
The view from the black basalt castle of Marqab was simultaneously breathtaking
and heartbreaking. Dating to the mid 11th century the castle traded hands between the Muslims and Crusaders, eventually falling to the Mamluks in 1285. It is perched high on the hill above the coastal city of Baniyas. The views over the Mediterannean are unsurpassed and would have provided an excellent early warning of the approach of any would-be raiders. To say that modern Syria is struggling in the areas of coastal planning and environmental management, would be an understament as grand as one could possible make. As enchanted as I was by wandering through the halls and chapels, catching a glimpse of the once magnificent frescos, I was left with a slighly bitter taste in my mouth. The air is thick with pollution belching from the refineries that marr the awesome view that the location of this castle affords.
On entering Crac Des Chavaliers, I found myself transported back to the middle of the 12th century. It was as if I was tredding the hallways and sharing the grand halls with the Crusader
knights who had expanded the fortress originally constructed by the emir of Homs more than 100 years before. Although obviously one of the touristic icons of Syria, it did not have the feeling of being overrun (as I had felt at both Ephesus and Gallipoli). By putting away the guidebook and just exploring I found myself wandering a dark narrow passage, punctuated by the occasional shaft of light. The lack of a torch, the uneven surface and the inevitable stubbing of my still swollen toe, jolted me back to reality. Although I feel as though I could have wandered, sat and wondered for many more hours, it was nearing the end of what had been quite a long day.
You know it's a small world when one of the guys I was chatting to over a roast chicken dinner (with humus, rice, salad, bread and a drink for about $8) was 7 months into a year long trip but hails from Maffra. After dinner, one of the guys that is staying at the Riad Hotel joined me at my new favourite cafe in Hama. As I entered, the guy just smiled at me and said 'one tea and one sisha,' which we enjoyed over a few games of backgammon. I must admit it's great to be travelling in a country where tourists are still somewhat of a novelty and it's nice to be known by the waiters at the places you choose to frequent. All in all, a very satisfing and gratifying end to an amazing day.
to be the day that I would finally see the castle described by Paul Theroux as the epitome of the dream castle of childhood fantasies. TE Lawrence simply called it 'the finest castle in the world.' All I can say is that it lives up to this hype. If you are inclined to visit just one castle in this world, make it Crac Des Chavaliers.In order to make the most of the day however, Crac would be the third place visited that day,as my driver took me to the Citadel at Misyaf and Qala'at Marqab. With the modern city of Misyaf (I use modern here meaning current rather than commenting on its state of development) growing around the citadel, it is easy to see how such places were so vital to the properity (and security) of the people who inhabited the surrounding countryside. The elevated positions of the citadels invariably result in amazing views; from within the town toward the citadel and from the citadel, of the town and surrounding country. I have also found citadels to be a useful navigation tool in large cities such as Aleppo. There are very few parts of the city from which the citadel cannot be seen and, as such, it is hard to be completely and hopelessly lost.
The view from the black basalt castle of Marqab was simultaneously breathtaking
and heartbreaking. Dating to the mid 11th century the castle traded hands between the Muslims and Crusaders, eventually falling to the Mamluks in 1285. It is perched high on the hill above the coastal city of Baniyas. The views over the Mediterannean are unsurpassed and would have provided an excellent early warning of the approach of any would-be raiders. To say that modern Syria is struggling in the areas of coastal planning and environmental management, would be an understament as grand as one could possible make. As enchanted as I was by wandering through the halls and chapels, catching a glimpse of the once magnificent frescos, I was left with a slighly bitter taste in my mouth. The air is thick with pollution belching from the refineries that marr the awesome view that the location of this castle affords.On entering Crac Des Chavaliers, I found myself transported back to the middle of the 12th century. It was as if I was tredding the hallways and sharing the grand halls with the Crusader
knights who had expanded the fortress originally constructed by the emir of Homs more than 100 years before. Although obviously one of the touristic icons of Syria, it did not have the feeling of being overrun (as I had felt at both Ephesus and Gallipoli). By putting away the guidebook and just exploring I found myself wandering a dark narrow passage, punctuated by the occasional shaft of light. The lack of a torch, the uneven surface and the inevitable stubbing of my still swollen toe, jolted me back to reality. Although I feel as though I could have wandered, sat and wondered for many more hours, it was nearing the end of what had been quite a long day.You know it's a small world when one of the guys I was chatting to over a roast chicken dinner (with humus, rice, salad, bread and a drink for about $8) was 7 months into a year long trip but hails from Maffra. After dinner, one of the guys that is staying at the Riad Hotel joined me at my new favourite cafe in Hama. As I entered, the guy just smiled at me and said 'one tea and one sisha,' which we enjoyed over a few games of backgammon. I must admit it's great to be travelling in a country where tourists are still somewhat of a novelty and it's nice to be known by the waiters at the places you choose to frequent. All in all, a very satisfing and gratifying end to an amazing day.
Apamea and the Dead Cities
I know I've said this before, but Syria just keeps getting better and better! The Riad Hotel runs a fleet of tax
is dedicated to tours organised through the hotel and so today Abdul chaffeured me on another sojourn through the spectacular Syrian countryside. As we drove through a rare Syrian thunderstorm I wondered what the day would bring. The rain cleared by the time we arrived at Serjilla, which allowed me to wander amongst the ruins with the aromas of a spring thunderstorm filling my nostrils and a fresh sheen over the buildings.
The Dead Cities once formed the hinterland of the great Byzantine city of Antioch. Although deserted for nearly 15 centuries, Serjilla at least, is remarkably well preserved. The number of facades that remain standing allow you to get a real feel for how the city was laid out and would have looked in its heyday. There is some reconstruction going on at the moment and so the presence of a large modern crane provided an interesting counterpoint to the more than 2000 year old ruins. A couple have shepherds have also recently moved in, allowing chickens and sheep to roam freely. Out next stop in the Dead Cities was Al-Bara. Although less well preserved, it was fascinating to see olive groves and cherry trees alongside striking pyramid tombs and ruined monasteries.
From Al-Bara we continued to Apamea. I have to say that Apamea is the equal, if not the pick, of
any of the archeological sites I have visited on this trip. It is spoken of by locals with the same reverence usually restricted to Palmyra. The nearly 2km stretch of grey granite colonades make for a breathtaking sight, especially when you consider it is perched on a high grassy moor overlooking the Al-Ghab Plain. It was founded in the second century BC by Seleuces I, one of Alexander the Great's generals. Although it prospered through the Byzantine period, it was sacked by the Persians in the 6th and 7th centuries and fell into decline when Syria was seized
by the Muslims.
What sevred to heighten my enjoyment of Apamea even more was that I shared this magnificence with at most 20 other visitors, a handful of shepherds and a few hundred sheep. I should not forget however, that there were a couple of people keen to sell me antiquities, including rare greek coins that he had recently founds amongst the ruins. Sceptical to say the least, and not remotely confident that the Greeks ever made it to Apamea, I declined the somewhat persistent offers.
I guess one of the byproducts of travelling alone is that I'm spending a little more time reading and learning about the history of the places that I am visiting. I am also getting the opportunity to meet some more of the locals. I had an interesting, if somewhat stilted conversation with an Iraqi guy who moved to Hama 5 years ago. He would like to return someday, but fears that it won't be anytime soon. All this over a cup of tea in an open air cafe, beside the Orontes River in Hama.
is dedicated to tours organised through the hotel and so today Abdul chaffeured me on another sojourn through the spectacular Syrian countryside. As we drove through a rare Syrian thunderstorm I wondered what the day would bring. The rain cleared by the time we arrived at Serjilla, which allowed me to wander amongst the ruins with the aromas of a spring thunderstorm filling my nostrils and a fresh sheen over the buildings.The Dead Cities once formed the hinterland of the great Byzantine city of Antioch. Although deserted for nearly 15 centuries, Serjilla at least, is remarkably well preserved. The number of facades that remain standing allow you to get a real feel for how the city was laid out and would have looked in its heyday. There is some reconstruction going on at the moment and so the presence of a large modern crane provided an interesting counterpoint to the more than 2000 year old ruins. A couple have shepherds have also recently moved in, allowing chickens and sheep to roam freely. Out next stop in the Dead Cities was Al-Bara. Although less well preserved, it was fascinating to see olive groves and cherry trees alongside striking pyramid tombs and ruined monasteries.
From Al-Bara we continued to Apamea. I have to say that Apamea is the equal, if not the pick, of
any of the archeological sites I have visited on this trip. It is spoken of by locals with the same reverence usually restricted to Palmyra. The nearly 2km stretch of grey granite colonades make for a breathtaking sight, especially when you consider it is perched on a high grassy moor overlooking the Al-Ghab Plain. It was founded in the second century BC by Seleuces I, one of Alexander the Great's generals. Although it prospered through the Byzantine period, it was sacked by the Persians in the 6th and 7th centuries and fell into decline when Syria was seized
by the Muslims.What sevred to heighten my enjoyment of Apamea even more was that I shared this magnificence with at most 20 other visitors, a handful of shepherds and a few hundred sheep. I should not forget however, that there were a couple of people keen to sell me antiquities, including rare greek coins that he had recently founds amongst the ruins. Sceptical to say the least, and not remotely confident that the Greeks ever made it to Apamea, I declined the somewhat persistent offers.
I guess one of the byproducts of travelling alone is that I'm spending a little more time reading and learning about the history of the places that I am visiting. I am also getting the opportunity to meet some more of the locals. I had an interesting, if somewhat stilted conversation with an Iraqi guy who moved to Hama 5 years ago. He would like to return someday, but fears that it won't be anytime soon. All this over a cup of tea in an open air cafe, beside the Orontes River in Hama.
Monday, May 26, 2008
Lattakia to Hama
Syria just keeps getting better and better! I had been told that there was no direct microbuses from Lattakia to Hama and that I would need to change at Homs. When I walked into the microbus station, not having a good understanding of exactly how I was going to negotiate this, the first guy I saw asked me if I wanted to go to Beirut! I assured him with an emphatic shake of the head that th
e answer was no. Assuming that what came out of his mouth next was asking me where I did want to go I replied with Hama. The gut standing next to him smiled and said (in almost perfect English) come with me, I am going to Hama). Normally I would be a little sceptical but all the Syrians I have met have been so friendly and genuine.
Anyway, my new friend guided me through the process and sat next to me on the bus. Not only did the bus go directly to Hama, I learned that he was a civil engineering student at University in Lattakia, who was returning home to Murghada (near Lattakia). He got to practice his English for a few hours and in return, he insisted on buying me lunch at the rest stop!
I may well have got off the bus at the wrong stop in Lattakia and spent the first 15 or so minutes wondering where I was and whether I was walking in the right direction. There are alwasy plenty of taxis around in case I felt that I became hopelessly lost! Just when I was beginning to feel more confident about where I was and the direction I was heading, another man approached me and asked if I needed any help. He knew of the place I was intending to stay (Hotel Riad) and walked with me the five minutes until I was at the front door. He was studying English Literature and a secondary school teacher.
I'm not sure whether this is typical or whether I just continue to be extremely lucky with the people I am meeting but either way, I hope the trend continues.
Hama and Hotel Riad are great. The city has a great feel to it and the manager of the hotel, Abdullah, has fantastic english and a really wicked sense of humour. The hotel organises day tours to the sights within driving distance of Hama and I expect to spend the next
3 or 4 nights here, using it as a base from which to explore.
Hama is best known for its wooden norias (water wheels), which are up to 20m in diameter and take water from the Orontes River and into mini aqueducts, from where it is used to irrigate the surrounding fields. Because the water wheels and the blocks on which they are mounted are wooden, they produce a mournful groaning which I anticipate to be quite haunting at night.
e answer was no. Assuming that what came out of his mouth next was asking me where I did want to go I replied with Hama. The gut standing next to him smiled and said (in almost perfect English) come with me, I am going to Hama). Normally I would be a little sceptical but all the Syrians I have met have been so friendly and genuine.Anyway, my new friend guided me through the process and sat next to me on the bus. Not only did the bus go directly to Hama, I learned that he was a civil engineering student at University in Lattakia, who was returning home to Murghada (near Lattakia). He got to practice his English for a few hours and in return, he insisted on buying me lunch at the rest stop!
I may well have got off the bus at the wrong stop in Lattakia and spent the first 15 or so minutes wondering where I was and whether I was walking in the right direction. There are alwasy plenty of taxis around in case I felt that I became hopelessly lost! Just when I was beginning to feel more confident about where I was and the direction I was heading, another man approached me and asked if I needed any help. He knew of the place I was intending to stay (Hotel Riad) and walked with me the five minutes until I was at the front door. He was studying English Literature and a secondary school teacher.
I'm not sure whether this is typical or whether I just continue to be extremely lucky with the people I am meeting but either way, I hope the trend continues.
Hama and Hotel Riad are great. The city has a great feel to it and the manager of the hotel, Abdullah, has fantastic english and a really wicked sense of humour. The hotel organises day tours to the sights within driving distance of Hama and I expect to spend the next
3 or 4 nights here, using it as a base from which to explore.Hama is best known for its wooden norias (water wheels), which are up to 20m in diameter and take water from the Orontes River and into mini aqueducts, from where it is used to irrigate the surrounding fields. Because the water wheels and the blocks on which they are mounted are wooden, they produce a mournful groaning which I anticipate to be quite haunting at night.
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Lattakia & Qala'at Saladin
Lattakia could not be more different from Aleppo. Maybe it's because I'm starting to relax into travelling in Syria, but Lattakia has a real Mediterranean feel to it. It is more relaxed and liberal with a great vibe and a developing cafe culture. It's also agreat place to do some people watching while nursing a Turkish coffee at one of the tables of the many coffee shops that line the streets.
Arriving in Lattakia just on sunset, I felt like a walk after the train ride and decided to navigate my own way to Hotel Lattakia. My map reading skills desserted me, but again the friendly and hospitable Syrians came to the rescue. With a pack on my back and a slightly befuddled look on my face, they were genuinely eager to help and point me in the right direction. About 20 minutes and three such displays of kindness later, I walked in the door of the hotel. The first word I heard from one of the guys sitting in the foyer was 'gidday' and I knew that I would be staying here! It is a friendly but basic place (which has forced me to get used to the Arab style squatter toilets) in a great location; and for about $10 a night you'll hear no complaints from me. I went for a wander that night and for a late dinner I found a cafe that served me a hamburger and chips (albeit with a distinctly Syrian flavour to it). of the travellers I have met in Syria so far, the kiwis semm to be punching above their weight. It's great to see, and I must admit, it's nice to hear a familiar accent.
This morning I wandered the streets and markets, interspersed with regular breaks for my fill of Turkish coffee and people watching, and eventually found myself at the Microbus station. Again, I decided against it and found a friendly taxi driver to take to Qala'at Saladin. A misunderstanding brought on my profound lack of Arabic and his less-than-perfect English, resulted in the price of the journey being raised enroute by a third party on a mobile phone, but I was happy and in reality it's only a few bucks.
While considering Qala'at Saladin, TE Lawrence was moved to write "It was I think the most sensational thing in castle building I have seen." After climbing to the top of the towers and wandering the paths, all the time soaking in the views; I could not possibly agree more. The reason for this is its location atop a heavily wooded ridge with precipitous sides dropping away to surrounding
ravines. It was also an amazing experience to travel the roads leading to the castle! I may be in a better place to make my judgement on Qala'at Saladin in a couple of days once I have feasted my eyes on the more celebrated Crac des Chavaliers.
Tomorrow I will head toward Hama and use that as a base to explore Crac, Apamea and a few other sights in the area. Syria is amazing. I'm loving it, although it is a very different experience being back to travelling by myself again. I will try and upload some photos of Syria soon.
Arriving in Lattakia just on sunset, I felt like a walk after the train ride and decided to navigate my own way to Hotel Lattakia. My map reading skills desserted me, but again the friendly and hospitable Syrians came to the rescue. With a pack on my back and a slightly befuddled look on my face, they were genuinely eager to help and point me in the right direction. About 20 minutes and three such displays of kindness later, I walked in the door of the hotel. The first word I heard from one of the guys sitting in the foyer was 'gidday' and I knew that I would be staying here! It is a friendly but basic place (which has forced me to get used to the Arab style squatter toilets) in a great location; and for about $10 a night you'll hear no complaints from me. I went for a wander that night and for a late dinner I found a cafe that served me a hamburger and chips (albeit with a distinctly Syrian flavour to it). of the travellers I have met in Syria so far, the kiwis semm to be punching above their weight. It's great to see, and I must admit, it's nice to hear a familiar accent.
This morning I wandered the streets and markets, interspersed with regular breaks for my fill of Turkish coffee and people watching, and eventually found myself at the Microbus station. Again, I decided against it and found a friendly taxi driver to take to Qala'at Saladin. A misunderstanding brought on my profound lack of Arabic and his less-than-perfect English, resulted in the price of the journey being raised enroute by a third party on a mobile phone, but I was happy and in reality it's only a few bucks.
While considering Qala'at Saladin, TE Lawrence was moved to write "It was I think the most sensational thing in castle building I have seen." After climbing to the top of the towers and wandering the paths, all the time soaking in the views; I could not possibly agree more. The reason for this is its location atop a heavily wooded ridge with precipitous sides dropping away to surrounding
ravines. It was also an amazing experience to travel the roads leading to the castle! I may be in a better place to make my judgement on Qala'at Saladin in a couple of days once I have feasted my eyes on the more celebrated Crac des Chavaliers.Tomorrow I will head toward Hama and use that as a base to explore Crac, Apamea and a few other sights in the area. Syria is amazing. I'm loving it, although it is a very different experience being back to travelling by myself again. I will try and upload some photos of Syria soon.
St Simeon the Polesitter
It has a bit of a Monty Python ring to it but I just couldn't help it. The other day, when passing through the holy city of Antioch, I couldn't help but have a quick look for the Holy Handgrenade. I think I may have even been heard to utter "three is the number of thy counting and the number of thy counting shall be three." Of course that may have been the delirium brought on by a sleepless night on a bus with a bunch of young military draftees.
Anyway, back to the story. Qala'at Samaan, or the Bascilica of St Simeon is located about 40km from Aleppo. In AD 423 Simeon climbed atop a3m pillar. When he died, 36 years later he had graduated to an 18m pillar (having spent the intervening time leading up to this great conquest). After his death an enormous church was built around the most famous pillar and, apparently, pilgrims from all over Christendom came to pay their respects. Is that all it takes, maybe there's hope for me yet!
What remains today is a remarkably well preserved Romanesque facade and ruins that provide magnificent views of the surrounding Syrian countryside.
Getting there was initially the source of some anxiety. I did not quite feel up to braving the Syrian microbus system by myself and then be left with quite some distance to go at the other end. As I was pondering this quandry, feeling decidedly less brave without my travelling companion, I realised that travelling with a fairly generous and flexible budget did afford me some luxuries. Almost certainly I paid above the going rate, but outside the Tourist Office I engaged the services of a taxi driver (with very good english) who drove me out there, waited for an hour and a half, and returned me to Aleppo. By Syrian standards it was expensive, but for a little under $40, I was relaxed, had a bit of a driving tour of Aleppo and learnt some Arabic along the way. The ruins were stunning, and yes, given the relatively short period of time, I set a pace with my photos that Mum could not hope to keep up with!
The time not spent messing around with public transport also allowed me sufficient time to board the afternoon train for Lattakia. The taxi and train rides provided quite possibly the best cross section of life in Syria I could have expected in one day. The road to Qala'at Samaan passed through New Aleppo, a sprawling outpost of modern apartment blocks and new roads that signal some of the reforms that appear to be gathering pace in Syria. The train on the other hand passed through poorer neighbourhoods, with areas of crumbling housing and filthy from rubbish been thrown over back fences and left to rot.
After a ride across a seemingly fertile, if somewhat rocky plain, the train passed through the mountains that run parallel to the Mediterranean coast. Lonely Planet got it right again; the views were simply spectacular, and I was luccky enough to emerge from the mountains, heading west for Lattakia, just as the sun was getting low in the sky. I hope the photos can do it justice!
Anyway, back to the story. Qala'at Samaan, or the Bascilica of St Simeon is located about 40km from Aleppo. In AD 423 Simeon climbed atop a3m pillar. When he died, 36 years later he had graduated to an 18m pillar (having spent the intervening time leading up to this great conquest). After his death an enormous church was built around the most famous pillar and, apparently, pilgrims from all over Christendom came to pay their respects. Is that all it takes, maybe there's hope for me yet!
What remains today is a remarkably well preserved Romanesque facade and ruins that provide magnificent views of the surrounding Syrian countryside.
Getting there was initially the source of some anxiety. I did not quite feel up to braving the Syrian microbus system by myself and then be left with quite some distance to go at the other end. As I was pondering this quandry, feeling decidedly less brave without my travelling companion, I realised that travelling with a fairly generous and flexible budget did afford me some luxuries. Almost certainly I paid above the going rate, but outside the Tourist Office I engaged the services of a taxi driver (with very good english) who drove me out there, waited for an hour and a half, and returned me to Aleppo. By Syrian standards it was expensive, but for a little under $40, I was relaxed, had a bit of a driving tour of Aleppo and learnt some Arabic along the way. The ruins were stunning, and yes, given the relatively short period of time, I set a pace with my photos that Mum could not hope to keep up with!
The time not spent messing around with public transport also allowed me sufficient time to board the afternoon train for Lattakia. The taxi and train rides provided quite possibly the best cross section of life in Syria I could have expected in one day. The road to Qala'at Samaan passed through New Aleppo, a sprawling outpost of modern apartment blocks and new roads that signal some of the reforms that appear to be gathering pace in Syria. The train on the other hand passed through poorer neighbourhoods, with areas of crumbling housing and filthy from rubbish been thrown over back fences and left to rot.
After a ride across a seemingly fertile, if somewhat rocky plain, the train passed through the mountains that run parallel to the Mediterranean coast. Lonely Planet got it right again; the views were simply spectacular, and I was luccky enough to emerge from the mountains, heading west for Lattakia, just as the sun was getting low in the sky. I hope the photos can do it justice!
Friday, May 23, 2008
My new favourite word - ubiquitous
There are a number of things which have pervaded every day of my travels so far. I may be stretching the definition of ubiquitous a touch but I would like to share some of them.
Flags and nationalism/patriotism - Turkey seemed to have giant flags perched atop every second hilltop (some in some fairly weird localities) and on 19 May, in every store window. In Syria (or Aleppo at least), Syrian flags can be found on the rooves of many many buildings.
The evil eye - in Turkey it is a charm designed to ward off evil spirits and guard against the evil intentions of others. One now adorns my wrist and and has pride of place on a t-shirt I bought in Istanbul.
Eggs - it occurred to me this morning, as I was savouring my breakfast and soaking in the view from the terrace on the fourth floor of my hotel, that I have had an egg for breakfast on every day bar one, since arriving in Turkey. A couple of the shops I passed in a souq were piled floor to ceiling with at least a couple of hundred dozen!
Bread with EVERY meal - in Turkey it is thickly cut from a fresh crusty loaf; in Syria it appears to be the flat pita bread style (warmed).
As I think of more I will add them to this post.
How could I possibly have forgotten......
Call to prayer - I have got to the point where I notice if I miss one. I actuallyenjoy hearing it. I could do without the apparent rhetoric or ranting that came with it in Aleppo (this was, of course, the sermon that accompanies every call to prayer in the middle of each Friday).
Mobile phones - I don't really know why, but I wasn't expecting that everybody would have one. I guess some things are the same all over the world.
Games of soccer in the street - I only wish my toe was better so I could join in.
D & G Ripoffs - from the sign at Ephesus that proclaimed 'genuine fake watches' to the veritable mountain of brand name clothing, it is every fashionista's nirvana (or possibly worst nightmare).
Flags and nationalism/patriotism - Turkey seemed to have giant flags perched atop every second hilltop (some in some fairly weird localities) and on 19 May, in every store window. In Syria (or Aleppo at least), Syrian flags can be found on the rooves of many many buildings.
The evil eye - in Turkey it is a charm designed to ward off evil spirits and guard against the evil intentions of others. One now adorns my wrist and and has pride of place on a t-shirt I bought in Istanbul.
Eggs - it occurred to me this morning, as I was savouring my breakfast and soaking in the view from the terrace on the fourth floor of my hotel, that I have had an egg for breakfast on every day bar one, since arriving in Turkey. A couple of the shops I passed in a souq were piled floor to ceiling with at least a couple of hundred dozen!
Bread with EVERY meal - in Turkey it is thickly cut from a fresh crusty loaf; in Syria it appears to be the flat pita bread style (warmed).
As I think of more I will add them to this post.
How could I possibly have forgotten......
Call to prayer - I have got to the point where I notice if I miss one. I actuallyenjoy hearing it. I could do without the apparent rhetoric or ranting that came with it in Aleppo (this was, of course, the sermon that accompanies every call to prayer in the middle of each Friday).
Mobile phones - I don't really know why, but I wasn't expecting that everybody would have one. I guess some things are the same all over the world.
Games of soccer in the street - I only wish my toe was better so I could join in.
D & G Ripoffs - from the sign at Ephesus that proclaimed 'genuine fake watches' to the veritable mountain of brand name clothing, it is every fashionista's nirvana (or possibly worst nightmare).
Welcome to Syria
The border crossing went more smoothly than I anticipated. It certainly helped being part of a group on a bus. The Syrians seemed interested by my occupation (I didn't have to eloborate more than public servant) and the Vietnamese visa in my passport. Just over the border I was ushered from the comfortable, air conditioned coach to a Syrian microbus. If you can picture a 20 year old 9 seater van, with a wannabe race driver behing the wheel, you'll have a pretty good picture!
The ride into Aleppo (known as Halep by the locals) was interesting to say the least
. Professional drivers could learn from the overtaking manouvers that all Syrian drivers seem to perform with ease! Not for the first time in the last 24 hours, when we were dropped off in Aleppo, my first thought was "Oh Shit" what have I let myself in for? My second thought was, well Pete, you're certainly in the Middle East now! A few minutes later, my composure returned, I decided to trust my instincts (and the little information I had garnered from the Lonely Planet) and started to walk. After about 20 minutes (and only 1 wrong turn) I was able to reliably locate myself on the map and also the street of the hotel at which I intended to stay. Having been awake for more than 30 hours at this stage, this realisation bought on an emotion close to unrequited joy! My fallback position had been to flag a taxi (there are thousands in Aleppo) and be taken to the Sheraton for a night of luxury!
After one false start, I found a room in the second hotel I entered and was greeted warmly in far better english than I had anticipated. I lashed out and got a single room with a full ensuite, including a western style toilet (I have avoided the arab squatters so far) for the princely sum of $16!
Today I have marvelled at the view from atop the Citadel and wandered aimlessly through the souqs (narrow covered alley ways lined with shops and stalls selling anything and everything) that seem to stretch for miles. The Syrians are a genuinely friendly people, but they could probably learn from the Vietnamese when it comes to public health and the storage of meat!
With my travelling mojo successfully ratchetted up a few notches, this is a country that I feel I will come to adore.
The ride into Aleppo (known as Halep by the locals) was interesting to say the least
. Professional drivers could learn from the overtaking manouvers that all Syrian drivers seem to perform with ease! Not for the first time in the last 24 hours, when we were dropped off in Aleppo, my first thought was "Oh Shit" what have I let myself in for? My second thought was, well Pete, you're certainly in the Middle East now! A few minutes later, my composure returned, I decided to trust my instincts (and the little information I had garnered from the Lonely Planet) and started to walk. After about 20 minutes (and only 1 wrong turn) I was able to reliably locate myself on the map and also the street of the hotel at which I intended to stay. Having been awake for more than 30 hours at this stage, this realisation bought on an emotion close to unrequited joy! My fallback position had been to flag a taxi (there are thousands in Aleppo) and be taken to the Sheraton for a night of luxury!After one false start, I found a room in the second hotel I entered and was greeted warmly in far better english than I had anticipated. I lashed out and got a single room with a full ensuite, including a western style toilet (I have avoided the arab squatters so far) for the princely sum of $16!
Today I have marvelled at the view from atop the Citadel and wandered aimlessly through the souqs (narrow covered alley ways lined with shops and stalls selling anything and everything) that seem to stretch for miles. The Syrians are a genuinely friendly people, but they could probably learn from the Vietnamese when it comes to public health and the storage of meat!With my travelling mojo successfully ratchetted up a few notches, this is a country that I feel I will come to adore.
Farewell to Turkey... For Now
And what a farewell it was! I fairly quickly realised that in travelling an hour east of Goreme to Kayseri (on my way to Antakya and Syria), I had strayed off the well trodden Turkey tourist path. In what ended up being 3 hours in the bus station waiting for my connection, it dawned on me just how easy travelling had been up until now. My (very) few words of Turkish had proven to be an amusement and, at times a good conversation starter (which then proceeded in English). I hadn't quite prepared for the complete lack of English and non-Turkish faces.
That's not what will prove to be memorable however. I arrived at the bus station at the same time as a considerable group of young guys, all chanting in unison and waiving their Turkish flags. My first reaction was "Oh Shit!" what celebrity or soccer team is coming in by bus and what have I let myself in for?
I was further enthralled (and more than slightly bemused) by the masses that gathered around every bus. The incessant chanting was just part of the most dramatic display of nationalistic fervour I have ever witnessed first hand. I couldn't work out why hundreds of people were bidding farewell to the young men boarding buses travelling in every direction. One thing I did realise is that there was not going to be any sleep on this overnight bus trip! Every bus that departed Kayseri was allowed to back out and then the path was blocked by a group who was allowed to sing, cheer and wave their flags. It was a strangely moving experience and one I now feel privileged to have witnessed (though not at the time). It was enough to move the young guy I was sitting next to, to tears.
A few hours into the trip it dawned on me that this was agroup of young men heading off to commence their compulsory military service (currently 15 months in Turkey). This suspicion was confirmed by the greeting party in Iskenderun the next morning.
As Antakya (known as Hatay by the locals) approached I was beginning to feel better (waking up after a sleepless night if you will). With Syria virtually in sight, I made a last minute change of plans and decided to push my tiredness and continue on to Syria; but that's for the next post...
That's not what will prove to be memorable however. I arrived at the bus station at the same time as a considerable group of young guys, all chanting in unison and waiving their Turkish flags. My first reaction was "Oh Shit!" what celebrity or soccer team is coming in by bus and what have I let myself in for?
I was further enthralled (and more than slightly bemused) by the masses that gathered around every bus. The incessant chanting was just part of the most dramatic display of nationalistic fervour I have ever witnessed first hand. I couldn't work out why hundreds of people were bidding farewell to the young men boarding buses travelling in every direction. One thing I did realise is that there was not going to be any sleep on this overnight bus trip! Every bus that departed Kayseri was allowed to back out and then the path was blocked by a group who was allowed to sing, cheer and wave their flags. It was a strangely moving experience and one I now feel privileged to have witnessed (though not at the time). It was enough to move the young guy I was sitting next to, to tears.
A few hours into the trip it dawned on me that this was agroup of young men heading off to commence their compulsory military service (currently 15 months in Turkey). This suspicion was confirmed by the greeting party in Iskenderun the next morning.
As Antakya (known as Hatay by the locals) approached I was beginning to feel better (waking up after a sleepless night if you will). With Syria virtually in sight, I made a last minute change of plans and decided to push my tiredness and continue on to Syria; but that's for the next post...
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Favourite Random Images
I have been incredibly lucky with the people I have met in Turkey. This continued in Cappadocia in the form of Milka, an Argentinian who shares her time between ski instructing in Colorado, family & friends in Argentina and wandering the world. She is an exceptional photographer and inspired both Kim and myself to start thinking more about people, characters, angles and light, rather than being mesmerised by the landscape (although that remains pretty damn good).
In order they are: a boat yard in a village near Fethiye, Bascilica Cistern in Istanbul, Covered market in Canakkale, Sam (from the cruise), Kim Milka and Fharti (manager of Flintstone in Goreme), a couple of companions on an early morning walk in Fethiye, View of our boat from a castle near the sunken city of Kekova, Breakfast at Homeros in Selcuk, sunset over the Bascilica in Selcuk, Storks at sunset in Selcuk, fellow photographer from across the theatre at Hieropolis, and the last seven are markets, mountain bikes, moonrise, people and sunrise all in Goreme, Cappadocia.
There are, of course, many many more. This is just a taste of the nearly 1500 photos I have taken in Turkey!
I have been really enjoying a change in focus (sorry I couldn't help it) and, in that spirit, the photos below are some of my favourite pics from Turkey.
In order they are: a boat yard in a village near Fethiye, Bascilica Cistern in Istanbul, Covered market in Canakkale, Sam (from the cruise), Kim Milka and Fharti (manager of Flintstone in Goreme), a couple of companions on an early morning walk in Fethiye, View of our boat from a castle near the sunken city of Kekova, Breakfast at Homeros in Selcuk, sunset over the Bascilica in Selcuk, Storks at sunset in Selcuk, fellow photographer from across the theatre at Hieropolis, and the last seven are markets, mountain bikes, moonrise, people and sunrise all in Goreme, Cappadocia.
There are, of course, many many more. This is just a taste of the nearly 1500 photos I have taken in Turkey!
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Cappadocia & Paul Kelly
Yesterday I wandered the streets of Goreme with the words to Paul Kelly's 'From St Kilda to Kings Cross' bouncing around my head. We had just spent 13 hours on a bus and arrived in a desserted little town just as the first light of dawn was spreading across the sky. It was great just to dump our packs at the Pension and wander the streets for a while. We found a good vantage point and watched
as more than 20 hot air balloons rose slowly into the lightening sky.
Back to the Paul Kelly reference, I couldn't help but ask myself the question would I trade all that land and all that water for this one sweet promenade? I'm just glad I don't have to answer that question.
The buses these in Turkey are clean and comfortable. It appears that the only person allowed to smoke on buses is the driver! We arrived in better shape than anticipated and so decided to be a little adventurous on our first day in Cappadoccia. We rented a couple of mountain bi
kes for a bit of off track exploring. We made the obligatory visit to the open air museum, but I really enjoyed having the chance and the means to explore away from the crowds for a while. The landscape of the whole area is so unlike anything I have seen before. It has elements of the Bungle Bungles, Badlands (South Dakota) and a lunar landscape all rolled into one.
The maze of valleys and ravines at times feels all but impenetrable and was the cause of us getting lost on a couple of occasions. After riding through creek beds and tunnels and pushing our bikes up impossibly steep goat tracks we emerged at Urchisar, a small town perched high on a ridge overlooking Goreme. The view from the top and on the way down was worth every bit of the effort to get there. The descent was..... a balancing act between soaking in the view, negotiating the turns, dodging the potholes and avoiding the buses! I had so much fun but my calves (and to a lesser extent my bum) were so sore.
My toe is slowly healing but I still cant get a shoe on my left foot (obviously its not slowing me down too much!). After the ride we celebrated with an Iced White Chocolate Frappe that was to die for. A deserved indulgence I figured (as was the afternoon nap that followed).
Much of the accommodation in Goreme is in the form of cave rooms, which allows your room to remain a fairly constant temperature during the day. I can't quite get my head around arriving all hot and sweaty in the middle of the afternoon and soon feeling the need to put on extra clothing. On the other hand, when we got back after dinner a little chilly, I soon became warm and toasty.
We rose early again this morning for the mandatory balloon ride. The 50 minute ride was simply breathtaking. We bagin with a close quartes descent through Rose Valley. I was amazed by how much control our pilot had, allowing us to get up close and personal with some awesome fairy chimneys and ravines. We the rose quite quickly and had a magnificent panoramic view from a fair way up. I was suprised by how peaceful it was, with this only being punctuated by an occasional blast of the propane torch. Infact, if I had been able to throw the Californian out of the basket the trip would have been perfect!
I have the next day or so wandering the alleys and shops of Goreme before boarding another overnight bust to Antakya (Hatay), once described as the most depraaved city of the Roman empire! From there I will kick off the Syrian leg of my adventure on Friday.
as more than 20 hot air balloons rose slowly into the lightening sky.Back to the Paul Kelly reference, I couldn't help but ask myself the question would I trade all that land and all that water for this one sweet promenade? I'm just glad I don't have to answer that question.
The buses these in Turkey are clean and comfortable. It appears that the only person allowed to smoke on buses is the driver! We arrived in better shape than anticipated and so decided to be a little adventurous on our first day in Cappadoccia. We rented a couple of mountain bi
kes for a bit of off track exploring. We made the obligatory visit to the open air museum, but I really enjoyed having the chance and the means to explore away from the crowds for a while. The landscape of the whole area is so unlike anything I have seen before. It has elements of the Bungle Bungles, Badlands (South Dakota) and a lunar landscape all rolled into one.The maze of valleys and ravines at times feels all but impenetrable and was the cause of us getting lost on a couple of occasions. After riding through creek beds and tunnels and pushing our bikes up impossibly steep goat tracks we emerged at Urchisar, a small town perched high on a ridge overlooking Goreme. The view from the top and on the way down was worth every bit of the effort to get there. The descent was..... a balancing act between soaking in the view, negotiating the turns, dodging the potholes and avoiding the buses! I had so much fun but my calves (and to a lesser extent my bum) were so sore.
My toe is slowly healing but I still cant get a shoe on my left foot (obviously its not slowing me down too much!). After the ride we celebrated with an Iced White Chocolate Frappe that was to die for. A deserved indulgence I figured (as was the afternoon nap that followed).Much of the accommodation in Goreme is in the form of cave rooms, which allows your room to remain a fairly constant temperature during the day. I can't quite get my head around arriving all hot and sweaty in the middle of the afternoon and soon feeling the need to put on extra clothing. On the other hand, when we got back after dinner a little chilly, I soon became warm and toasty.
We rose early again this morning for the mandatory balloon ride. The 50 minute ride was simply breathtaking. We bagin with a close quartes descent through Rose Valley. I was amazed by how much control our pilot had, allowing us to get up close and personal with some awesome fairy chimneys and ravines. We the rose quite quickly and had a magnificent panoramic view from a fair way up. I was suprised by how peaceful it was, with this only being punctuated by an occasional blast of the propane torch. Infact, if I had been able to throw the Californian out of the basket the trip would have been perfect!
I have the next day or so wandering the alleys and shops of Goreme before boarding another overnight bust to Antakya (Hatay), once described as the most depraaved city of the Roman empire! From there I will kick off the Syrian leg of my adventure on Friday.
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Can İ claim this trip on tax?
Surely this has to be worth having a crack. I have inspected and explored port facilities, sea walls and and a myriad of coastal revetment works. I have extensively photographed many coastal developments and discussed with locals about the impacts of tourism on local and regional economies, cultures and the environment. I have sought out motorhome and camping parks (İ think we can do better than the Turkish model) and witnessed the impacts of ancient sea level rise on the sunken city of Kekova (ok so İ did this last one while sunbaking on the top deck of our 23 metre yacht wıth a beer in one hand!). I have travelled the coastal roads and experienced first hand the issues that arise at the hands of limited infrastructure planning.
All this in Turkey! (and a bit in Singapore) İ still have the coastlines of Syria, Jordan and Egypt to go!
Tongue in cheek as this is, İ will certainly return home with a far broader appreciation for how this region approaches coastal management. Here ends the only thought İ have had regarding work in the last 16 days!
All this in Turkey! (and a bit in Singapore) İ still have the coastlines of Syria, Jordan and Egypt to go!
Tongue in cheek as this is, İ will certainly return home with a far broader appreciation for how this region approaches coastal management. Here ends the only thought İ have had regarding work in the last 16 days!
Saturday, May 17, 2008
An evening in Fethiye
Almost all of us who had shared the boat for 4 days journeyed to the fish markets for a meal and an evening to remember. You arrive at a central collection of fishmongers surrounded by a ring of restaurants. With your best haggling hat on, you select and buy the seafood you desire and then take it to a restaurant who will cook it for you (and provide salad and coffee) for 5 lira (about $5). I settled on a piece of tuna and 8 large prawns, all of which was absolutely divine. A magnıfıcent meal in an amazing setting with wonderful company.
After dinner, Kım, Brock, Claıre and İ braved the Ottoman Dancing Bar for a couple of beers and a nargıle (Turkish water pipe). İt struck me during the conversation that a week ago İ did not know any of these people and İ delighted in the feeling that travelling just doesnt get better than this.
As İ have wandered the shops and alley ways this morning, the realisation has hit home that this afternoon İ will part company with our sailing companions and in a couple of days Kim and İ wıll go our separate ways from Cappadocia. İ am not particularly relishing the concept of travelling by myself again, but İ am eager to explore Syria and it has made me keen to search out fellow travellers with whom İ can share a journey for a few days.
After dinner, Kım, Brock, Claıre and İ braved the Ottoman Dancing Bar for a couple of beers and a nargıle (Turkish water pipe). İt struck me during the conversation that a week ago İ did not know any of these people and İ delighted in the feeling that travelling just doesnt get better than this.
As İ have wandered the shops and alley ways this morning, the realisation has hit home that this afternoon İ will part company with our sailing companions and in a couple of days Kim and İ wıll go our separate ways from Cappadocia. İ am not particularly relishing the concept of travelling by myself again, but İ am eager to explore Syria and it has made me keen to search out fellow travellers with whom İ can share a journey for a few days.
Friday, May 16, 2008
Cruising the Mediterranean
İ have just retrned from 4 days and 3 nights aboard a Turkısh gulet cruising the Mediterranean. Picture all the brochures, imagine how fantastic it would be swimming and exploring the crystal blue waters and it wont even come close to the reality! After some initial booking and logistical complications that saw Kim and İ board us bus for a cruise back to Fethiye (from Demre) we really lucked out.
We had 11 passangers and 4 crew aboard a 23 metre yacht. The passengers consısted of Kim and İ, Rob and Susie (a semi retired Australian Cinese couple exploring the world), Brock and Claire (an Australian Irısh couple exploring India and Turkey on their honeymoon, and moving from
Australia to İreland), Sam and Sumi ( a Korean couple on a 10 month travelling adventure) and Chantelle, Fay and Gemma (a trıo of kiwi girls on holiday from living in London). İt was a great relaxed group that just made the whole trip all the more memorable.
Mum and Dad, this is what İ have chosen to spend your very generous gıft on and İ could not have hoped for a better experience. The waters were crystal blue, the coastline rugged and spectacular, the food exquisite and the company inspiring.
On the first day we cruised slowly over an ancient sunken city and savoured the sights from a castle perched above a nest of islands close to the Turkish coast. We moored for the night ın the harbour of the pıcturesque town of Kaş. I may have to come back to Turkey, ıf for no other reason than to fully explore this place. On the second day a gale blew up and we enjoyed a spray filled and bumpy ride to Kalkan. While we still had a lot of fun, it was here that İ experienced my first hitch of the trip. İ took a stumble down some stairs on the boat. After spend a few hours fearing İ had broken the big toe on my left foot, İ now know that it is only badly bruised. İ will need to modify my amount of walking over the next week or so, but it should all prove to be fine.
We had 11 passangers and 4 crew aboard a 23 metre yacht. The passengers consısted of Kim and İ, Rob and Susie (a semi retired Australian Cinese couple exploring the world), Brock and Claire (an Australian Irısh couple exploring India and Turkey on their honeymoon, and moving from
Australia to İreland), Sam and Sumi ( a Korean couple on a 10 month travelling adventure) and Chantelle, Fay and Gemma (a trıo of kiwi girls on holiday from living in London). İt was a great relaxed group that just made the whole trip all the more memorable.Mum and Dad, this is what İ have chosen to spend your very generous gıft on and İ could not have hoped for a better experience. The waters were crystal blue, the coastline rugged and spectacular, the food exquisite and the company inspiring.
On the first day we cruised slowly over an ancient sunken city and savoured the sights from a castle perched above a nest of islands close to the Turkish coast. We moored for the night ın the harbour of the pıcturesque town of Kaş. I may have to come back to Turkey, ıf for no other reason than to fully explore this place. On the second day a gale blew up and we enjoyed a spray filled and bumpy ride to Kalkan. While we still had a lot of fun, it was here that İ experienced my first hitch of the trip. İ took a stumble down some stairs on the boat. After spend a few hours fearing İ had broken the big toe on my left foot, İ now know that it is only badly bruised. İ will need to modify my amount of walking over the next week or so, but it should all prove to be fine.
On the third day the captain was keen to make a run along the coast before the winds had the chance to blow up again. This meant a 5 oclock start! We arrıved at Butterfly Bay, our scheduled and sheltered lunch stop at 9 am and savoured the opportunity for a leisurely breakfast preceeded by an oblıgatory swim. İn the afternoon we swam ın the Blue Lagoon near Oludeniz. İt gave me a very different view from that which İ had experienced a few days earlier (from 6000 feet up) and gave me the chance to relate my stories as we watched other brave souls descend to the beach after jumping off the mountain. We moored for the night at St Nıcholas İsland, adjoing a veritable armada of chartered yachts all cruing the Med.
The final day saw us cruise back toward Fethiye, complete with the spectacular scenery and obligatory plunge into the unbelievably blue waters from atop the roof of our yacht. İ have spent more time lazing in the sun over the past 4 days than the previous 4 years combined! As İ lay ın bed last night and stood in the shower this morning, the whole world seemed to be continuing the gentle rocing of the boat (its nice but İ hope it doesnt last for too long!).
Monday, May 12, 2008
What was I thinking?
I woke up this morning, saw that it was a beautiful sunny day and decided that I would go and jump off a mountain! Apparently this is a mecca for tandem paragliding and I have been heard to utter 'when ın Rome....'
After paring with my hard earned cash, I was ushered into a service taxi and drive over the hill to Oludeniz. From there we were crammed into the back of a troop carrıer for the (somewhat) treacherous drive up the mountain. Innumerable switchbacks later, we emerged with a view of the picture postcard town from 6000 feet up. As I had done a few times on thee way up, I asked myself what the *%+!* was I thinking?
We got dressed in our funky flight suits and met our pilots. The tension rose just a little. The
cloud began to start rolling in. The tension rose a little more. We stood there ready to rock n roll for nearly 20 minutes, waiting for favourable wind conditions to launch. I dont think my heart has ever beat harder or faster.
Wıth the rhetorıc question 'you ready?' we walked for a few steps, jogged for 5 or 6 and were launched into the air. We were kıtted out with seat like harnesses that made for a very comfortable ride for the 40 or so minutes to the beach. I was amazed at how quıckly I becae calm and was awashed with a feeling of utter tranquility ( weird when two of you are 6000 feet in the aır supprted by nothing more than a piece
of material, but there it was). We soared over ridges and headed out over the water for the most amazing views I have ever had.
When we were down to about 1500 feet and over the water, my pilot asked if I wanted him to do some tricks. Completely in the moment, I eagerly agreed. What followed was a serıes of twists, turns and spırals that would leave any rollercoaster that wıll ever be buılt in its wake. We came in low over the town for a perfect landing on the beach. None of the superlatives that come to mind seem remotely adequate for describing the feeling. Pure exhileration. We may have an adrenaline junky in the making, as İ cant stop thinking about doing it again!!!
After paring with my hard earned cash, I was ushered into a service taxi and drive over the hill to Oludeniz. From there we were crammed into the back of a troop carrıer for the (somewhat) treacherous drive up the mountain. Innumerable switchbacks later, we emerged with a view of the picture postcard town from 6000 feet up. As I had done a few times on thee way up, I asked myself what the *%+!* was I thinking?
We got dressed in our funky flight suits and met our pilots. The tension rose just a little. The
cloud began to start rolling in. The tension rose a little more. We stood there ready to rock n roll for nearly 20 minutes, waiting for favourable wind conditions to launch. I dont think my heart has ever beat harder or faster.Wıth the rhetorıc question 'you ready?' we walked for a few steps, jogged for 5 or 6 and were launched into the air. We were kıtted out with seat like harnesses that made for a very comfortable ride for the 40 or so minutes to the beach. I was amazed at how quıckly I becae calm and was awashed with a feeling of utter tranquility ( weird when two of you are 6000 feet in the aır supprted by nothing more than a piece
of material, but there it was). We soared over ridges and headed out over the water for the most amazing views I have ever had.When we were down to about 1500 feet and over the water, my pilot asked if I wanted him to do some tricks. Completely in the moment, I eagerly agreed. What followed was a serıes of twists, turns and spırals that would leave any rollercoaster that wıll ever be buılt in its wake. We came in low over the town for a perfect landing on the beach. None of the superlatives that come to mind seem remotely adequate for describing the feeling. Pure exhileration. We may have an adrenaline junky in the making, as İ cant stop thinking about doing it again!!!
Just another Saturday Night in Selçuk
Just as we were r
elaxing with a beer after dinner, happily relating stories of our day in Pammukale, the sky exploded with colour almost overhead. The caccophony (?) that followed let everybody know that Galatassaray had just won the Turkish soccer championship. Not wanting to let an opportunity like this pass us by, we hıgh tailed it down to the city centre just in time to gat caught up in the mass of colour, noise and celebration as the spontaneous street parade clogged the main street in Selcuk.
The turks really know how to party and they are pa
ssionate about their soccer. I only hope that no Collingwood supporters wıtness anything such as this and get any brıght ideas! There was maroon and gold as far as the eye could see; there were flares being waved by hands and gıant flags being waved by people standing atop moving buses. All thıs in a town no larger than Traralgon. The dıstant sounds İ could hear as İ lay ın my bed, and the sore heads I saw the next morning lead me to believe that the revelry carried on most of the night. It was utterly intoxicating.
elaxing with a beer after dinner, happily relating stories of our day in Pammukale, the sky exploded with colour almost overhead. The caccophony (?) that followed let everybody know that Galatassaray had just won the Turkish soccer championship. Not wanting to let an opportunity like this pass us by, we hıgh tailed it down to the city centre just in time to gat caught up in the mass of colour, noise and celebration as the spontaneous street parade clogged the main street in Selcuk.The turks really know how to party and they are pa
ssionate about their soccer. I only hope that no Collingwood supporters wıtness anything such as this and get any brıght ideas! There was maroon and gold as far as the eye could see; there were flares being waved by hands and gıant flags being waved by people standing atop moving buses. All thıs in a town no larger than Traralgon. The dıstant sounds İ could hear as İ lay ın my bed, and the sore heads I saw the next morning lead me to believe that the revelry carried on most of the night. It was utterly intoxicating.Pammukale & Hieropolis
It would be an awesome sight to see all the travertines overflowing with water, and to bathe and laze ın the pools, soakıng up the afternoon sun. I fear those days are behind Pammulkale. Nevertheless, the milky blue of the pools (the few that have water flowing into them) set among the stark white of the travertines and contrasted against a deep blue cloudless sky and expansive valley below, do make for some fantstic sıghts (and İ hope some memorable photos).
We also had a great wander through the ruins of Hieropolis. Perhaps lesser known than Ephesus, but no less deserving of praise. Sitting just above the familiar white travertines, the city would have enjoyed breathtaking and spectacular views across a wide valley to the (still) snow capped mountains beyond. İt was just a little
mındblowing to think of 150,000 people living in this place, a large number of them seeking the benefits of the healing waters and legendary health spa.
Visiting Pammukale as a day trip from Selçuk, with a 3 hour bus ride each way, does make for a long day. It made me appreciate Sanya's homecookıng at Homeros Pension all the more.
We also had a great wander through the ruins of Hieropolis. Perhaps lesser known than Ephesus, but no less deserving of praise. Sitting just above the familiar white travertines, the city would have enjoyed breathtaking and spectacular views across a wide valley to the (still) snow capped mountains beyond. İt was just a little
mındblowing to think of 150,000 people living in this place, a large number of them seeking the benefits of the healing waters and legendary health spa.Visiting Pammukale as a day trip from Selçuk, with a 3 hour bus ride each way, does make for a long day. It made me appreciate Sanya's homecookıng at Homeros Pension all the more.
Friday, May 9, 2008
Selçuk & Ephesus
As is typical with any evolving adventure, plans change. Over a morning coffee ın Cannakale (so thick I swear my spoon wanted to stand upright) the three of us - Davıd from the UK and Kim, a guy from Brisbane just starting out on a 6 month trıp and I - planned the days ahead. We elected to bypass Permagum and come straıght to Selçuk (pronounced Selchuk). Its actually closer to Ephesus than Kusadasi and far less touristy. We had a good tip on a pension from a French Canadian couple that David had met and it is simply sensational (check it out at http://www.homerospension.com/)! İt has a really friendly atmospher
e, a rooftop terrace wıth stunning views and dinner, bed and breakfast for about $33.
We wandered the magnificent ruins at Ephesus thıs morning, delighting in the first perfect blue sky since my arrival. The degree of preservation and the sheer size of the city means İ could have happily spent the whole day there. If only it wasnt for the 10,000 or so other we had to share the place with!
The time wandering this afternoon has proven to be a little expensive - İ am now the proud owner of a new Turkısh carpet! İ am going to mail it home so that İ dont have to carry it around for the next couple of months.
Tomorrow we are planning a day trip to Pammukale before David heads back to İstanbul and home. It looks like Kim and İ will stay travelling together for at least the next week. On Sunday we are going to head to Fethıye and are both keen on a four day Medıterranean sailing trıp aboard a traditional Turkıs yacht. That will drop us in Olympos and from there we will likely head toward Capadoccia.
İt great to have met someone with similar plans and a laid back style. We both bought carpets from thee same store this arvo, so we did some tag team negotiating!
e, a rooftop terrace wıth stunning views and dinner, bed and breakfast for about $33.We wandered the magnificent ruins at Ephesus thıs morning, delighting in the first perfect blue sky since my arrival. The degree of preservation and the sheer size of the city means İ could have happily spent the whole day there. If only it wasnt for the 10,000 or so other we had to share the place with!
The time wandering this afternoon has proven to be a little expensive - İ am now the proud owner of a new Turkısh carpet! İ am going to mail it home so that İ dont have to carry it around for the next couple of months.
Tomorrow we are planning a day trip to Pammukale before David heads back to İstanbul and home. It looks like Kim and İ will stay travelling together for at least the next week. On Sunday we are going to head to Fethıye and are both keen on a four day Medıterranean sailing trıp aboard a traditional Turkıs yacht. That will drop us in Olympos and from there we will likely head toward Capadoccia.
İt great to have met someone with similar plans and a laid back style. We both bought carpets from thee same store this arvo, so we did some tag team negotiating!
Dıscombobulating - an explanation
The relevance of discombobulate mainly comes from a journey through the Grand Bazaar. There are so many alley ways, nooks and crannıes that its almost ımpossible not to get wonderfully lost! The whole place takes selling and haggling to a whole new level. Around every corner is a chance to part with your Lira (or Euro or dollars) for 'genuıne fake watches', any brand of clothing ever made, trinkets of unimaginable 'kitchness' and carpets and antiquities of stunning beauty and alleged rarity.
İstanbul is also at a stage where it is modernising so rapidly that there is a weird and intriging (although somewhat confusing) blend of old and new, east and west. İt is unlıke any other place İ have been and İ am lookıng forward to spendıng a few more days there at the end of my Middle Eastern adventure.
İstanbul is also at a stage where it is modernising so rapidly that there is a weird and intriging (although somewhat confusing) blend of old and new, east and west. İt is unlıke any other place İ have been and İ am lookıng forward to spendıng a few more days there at the end of my Middle Eastern adventure.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Troy and Gallipoli
It's so hard to know where to start - it feels that way when you are conflicted with the pride, rage, frustration, admiration, comradeship, futility and sheer disbelief that a visit to Gallipoli imbues. I wrote in the visitor book at Lone Pine that we should all visit here so that we can remember, learn and not be doomed to repeat the mistakes of the past. It's hard to say that I enjoyed the visit, but it was something that I wouldn't have missed for the world. I feel both richer and poorer for it.
It's an interesting contrast to visit Troy and Gallipoli in the same day. If you choose to believe the legend, the Spartans and the Trojans fought a war for 10 years all for the love of the most beautiful woman in the world. In this sense Troy and Gallipoli could not be further apart ideologically. Nevertheless the two are irrevocably linked. Troy owed its wealth to its location at the head of the Dardenelles and the need for ships to anchor in the harbour and wait for favourable winds before sailing through to the Black Sea. In this sense both wars were due to to the strategic importance of a bloody stretch of water.
The practical side of me knows that it is easy to see why. Today more than 10,000 ships a year (mostly oil) pass through the Dardenelles, which at it's narrowest point is only 1200m wide.
The ideologue in me wants to argue with all my breath against this rationale. One thing today has reinforced for me is the sheer waste and futility of war. The price paid, in all terms imaginable, is just not worth the perceived or potential economic or political gain; it simply can never be. Our guide today, Murat, told me that, from his village 43 men went off to fight the war. Only 8 returned.
Both guides today were excellent and Cannakkale is an enchanting town. Both tour groups I
went on were pretty good and it seems I've picked up a couple of travelling companions for the next couple of days. We are going to head down to Permagum tomorrow and just follow our noses from there. They seem like good fun guys to hang out with for a while. It might be interesting to see what we can get up to in Selcuk!
In a later post I'll have to fill you in on some of the people and characters I am meeting along the way.
It's an interesting contrast to visit Troy and Gallipoli in the same day. If you choose to believe the legend, the Spartans and the Trojans fought a war for 10 years all for the love of the most beautiful woman in the world. In this sense Troy and Gallipoli could not be further apart ideologically. Nevertheless the two are irrevocably linked. Troy owed its wealth to its location at the head of the Dardenelles and the need for ships to anchor in the harbour and wait for favourable winds before sailing through to the Black Sea. In this sense both wars were due to to the strategic importance of a bloody stretch of water.
The practical side of me knows that it is easy to see why. Today more than 10,000 ships a year (mostly oil) pass through the Dardenelles, which at it's narrowest point is only 1200m wide.
The ideologue in me wants to argue with all my breath against this rationale. One thing today has reinforced for me is the sheer waste and futility of war. The price paid, in all terms imaginable, is just not worth the perceived or potential economic or political gain; it simply can never be. Our guide today, Murat, told me that, from his village 43 men went off to fight the war. Only 8 returned.
Both guides today were excellent and Cannakkale is an enchanting town. Both tour groups I
went on were pretty good and it seems I've picked up a couple of travelling companions for the next couple of days. We are going to head down to Permagum tomorrow and just follow our noses from there. They seem like good fun guys to hang out with for a while. It might be interesting to see what we can get up to in Selcuk!In a later post I'll have to fill you in on some of the people and characters I am meeting along the way.
Istanbul
It was remiss of me yesterday to relate the story of my hamam experience and leave out the rest of my day in Istanbul.
I stood in awe at the voluminous granduer of the Blue Mosque and savoured the delights of the
artwork and treasures of Topkapi Palace. I wandered through the parks and watched the fishermen ply their trade on the Bosphorus. I strolled across the Galata Koprusu (bridge) and climbed climbed to the heights of Galeta Kulesi to soak in what has to be the best view of Istanbul from 10 stories up. I joined the throng on Istiklal Caddesi, whic I am reliably informed is Istanbul's premier shopping thoroughfare. I put away my map and wandered through the streets of a residential neighbourhood before an afternoon snoo
ze in the sun by the Bosphorous.
Never have I seen a description of a city that is more apt than the way Lonely Planet describes Istanbul. Sure, it has it's icon sites and treasures that exude a rare beauty and majesty, but there is so much more to Istanbul. It is full of sights and sounds and smells that simply must be experienced. I have a new favourite word - discombobulating - it just seems to fit. One of these days I'll have to find out what it means!
When I return to Istanbul at the start of July there is the potential for a shopping spree to excel my efforts in Vietnam!!!
I stood in awe at the voluminous granduer of the Blue Mosque and savoured the delights of the
artwork and treasures of Topkapi Palace. I wandered through the parks and watched the fishermen ply their trade on the Bosphorus. I strolled across the Galata Koprusu (bridge) and climbed climbed to the heights of Galeta Kulesi to soak in what has to be the best view of Istanbul from 10 stories up. I joined the throng on Istiklal Caddesi, whic I am reliably informed is Istanbul's premier shopping thoroughfare. I put away my map and wandered through the streets of a residential neighbourhood before an afternoon snoo
ze in the sun by the Bosphorous.Never have I seen a description of a city that is more apt than the way Lonely Planet describes Istanbul. Sure, it has it's icon sites and treasures that exude a rare beauty and majesty, but there is so much more to Istanbul. It is full of sights and sounds and smells that simply must be experienced. I have a new favourite word - discombobulating - it just seems to fit. One of these days I'll have to find out what it means!
When I return to Istanbul at the start of July there is the potential for a shopping spree to excel my efforts in Vietnam!!!
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