Crac Des Chavaliers & the Castles of Syria

Today was to be the day that I would finally see the castle described by Paul Theroux as the epitome of the dream castle of childhood fantasies. TE Lawrence simply called it 'the finest castle in the world.' All I can say is that it lives up to this hype. If you are inclined to visit just one castle in this world, make it Crac Des Chavaliers.

In order to make the most of the day however, Crac would be the third place visited that day,as my driver took me to the Citadel at Misyaf and Qala'at Marqab. With the modern city of Misyaf (I use modern here meaning current rather than commenting on its state of development) growing around the citadel, it is easy to see how such places were so vital to the properity (and security) of the people who inhabited the surrounding countryside. The elevated positions of the citadels invariably result in amazing views; from within the town toward the citadel and from the citadel, of the town and surrounding country. I have also found citadels to be a useful navigation tool in large cities such as Aleppo. There are very few parts of the city from which the citadel cannot be seen and, as such, it is hard to be completely and hopelessly lost.

The view from the black basalt castle of Marqab was simultaneously breathtaking and heartbreaking. Dating to the mid 11th century the castle traded hands between the Muslims and Crusaders, eventually falling to the Mamluks in 1285. It is perched high on the hill above the coastal city of Baniyas. The views over the Mediterannean are unsurpassed and would have provided an excellent early warning of the approach of any would-be raiders. To say that modern Syria is struggling in the areas of coastal planning and environmental management, would be an understament as grand as one could possible make. As enchanted as I was by wandering through the halls and chapels, catching a glimpse of the once magnificent frescos, I was left with a slighly bitter taste in my mouth. The air is thick with pollution belching from the refineries that marr the awesome view that the location of this castle affords.

On entering Crac Des Chavaliers, I found myself transported back to the middle of the 12th century. It was as if I was tredding the hallways and sharing the grand halls with the Crusader knights who had expanded the fortress originally constructed by the emir of Homs more than 100 years before. Although obviously one of the touristic icons of Syria, it did not have the feeling of being overrun (as I had felt at both Ephesus and Gallipoli). By putting away the guidebook and just exploring I found myself wandering a dark narrow passage, punctuated by the occasional shaft of light. The lack of a torch, the uneven surface and the inevitable stubbing of my still swollen toe, jolted me back to reality. Although I feel as though I could have wandered, sat and wondered for many more hours, it was nearing the end of what had been quite a long day.

You know it's a small world when one of the guys I was chatting to over a roast chicken dinner (with humus, rice, salad, bread and a drink for about $8) was 7 months into a year long trip but hails from Maffra. After dinner, one of the guys that is staying at the Riad Hotel joined me at my new favourite cafe in Hama. As I entered, the guy just smiled at me and said 'one tea and one sisha,' which we enjoyed over a few games of backgammon. I must admit it's great to be travelling in a country where tourists are still somewhat of a novelty and it's nice to be known by the waiters at the places you choose to frequent. All in all, a very satisfing and gratifying end to an amazing day.