e in Syria is the dichotomy between the traditional and the modern so tangible. Damascus is a thriving bustling city of 5 million and is also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Central Damascus is awash with modern buildings, chic cafes and choked by traffic. Old Damascus seduces with the charm of the souqs, the grandeur of its mosques and the ability to find yourself totally alone as you wander the narrow streets and alleys. 
I had been intent of leaving my shopping until I returned to Istanbul (and changed from travelling to holiday mode). Alas, the lure of souqs proved too strong for me to withstand and I now carry with me a leather jacket and a couple of gifts. At the prices on offer I simply could not refuse!
I have savoured my time in Syria, but there are some things that take some getting used to and just occasionally they got the better of me. Syrians seem to be a very tactile people; they have a very different concept of personal space and occasionally have trouble taking 'la shukran' (no thank you) for an answer (this mainly came from touts in the souqs and taxi drivers wanting to take me to a hotel where they would earn a commission). I'm sure I have mentioned it before, but the almost total disregard for the environment, in the form of pollution and the amount of rubbish lining the streets and highways was frequently disheartening.
When arranging for my trip from Damascus to Amman this morning, I witnessed more animation and agressiveness than I would have thought possible. There was open hostility between the drivers of the service taxis as they tried to fill their cars for the journey south. For a moment I thought my pack and myself were going to become embroiled in this heaving fracas of raised voices and wild gesticulation. I soon found myself a car and, once on the road, everything went smoothly. I now find myself happily settled in at the Palace Hotel in Amman. It's not as grand as the name would suggest, but it will serve nicely as a base for the next few days as I explore the city, northern Jordan and venture down the Dead Sea.
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